The shorter tube that comes with the even shorter cage has a larger out diameter. but the through hole is the same. I expect this is because the hole in the cages are all the same.
if there were a wider tube, the thread would have to be wider and the hole in the cage also wider.
But it is wider otherwise.
In the nub this still has to be angled down.
surprisingly, in the flat cage (which I'm in at the moment) it doesn't need to be altered. straight down the middle is fine, and it sticks out the back of the cage (not really a cage, just a lid) by about an inch.
Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
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Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
Me. "I only got 30 seconds, that's not fair". C. "life's not fair, suck it up"
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Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
This thread got me thinking that using an insert might help stretch my too narrow urethra, so I thought that I would buy a couple of silicone inserts with different diameters to experiment. I started with the smaller one leaving it in for 10 minutes one day and 15 minutes a few days later. sliding it slowly in and out a dozen times and had no stinging or bleeding.
A few days later, I put my Cobra on over it and left it in for 20 minutes. When I took it out I became more than a little concerned when I saw that I was pulling out drops of blood ahead of the metal tip and that the 5" silicone tube was filled with blood. I was vey relieved when no additional blood came out, not was there any blood mixed in the urine when I peed about 20 minutes later.
I am wondering exactly what caused the bleeding since there were a few variables. 1 - It was in twice as long. 2 - The tube was forced into a curved shape by my wearing the Cobra, which also kept the tip (which is wider than the tube) in one place for that 20 minutes. 3 - I was active during that 20 minutes, pulling weeds actually.
A few days later, I put my Cobra on over it and left it in for 20 minutes. When I took it out I became more than a little concerned when I saw that I was pulling out drops of blood ahead of the metal tip and that the 5" silicone tube was filled with blood. I was vey relieved when no additional blood came out, not was there any blood mixed in the urine when I peed about 20 minutes later.
I am wondering exactly what caused the bleeding since there were a few variables. 1 - It was in twice as long. 2 - The tube was forced into a curved shape by my wearing the Cobra, which also kept the tip (which is wider than the tube) in one place for that 20 minutes. 3 - I was active during that 20 minutes, pulling weeds actually.
Past Devices: Curve & CB 6000s. Both broke, were repaired; then broke beyond repair. I threw the dreaded Spiked Chamber away.
Current Devices: MM Jail Bird, Cobra, MM Watchful Mistress, Holy Trainer v3, and a new Curve.
Current Devices: MM Jail Bird, Cobra, MM Watchful Mistress, Holy Trainer v3, and a new Curve.
Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
As Mr. Pickle said, I think it is the edge of the silicone tube that is cutting the inside of the urethra. Not enough to be serious, just enough to let some blood out. It is pretty scary to see blood coming out, that is for sure. Luckily it seems to stop quickly as you found out. I don't know if there is anything you can do to round the edge other than using heat to melt the edge.
You can get a set of urethral sounds to stretch out the inner diameter. The generic metal tube seems to be a good size as it is comfortable and yet still big enough to allow urination without a lot of mess.
You can get a set of urethral sounds to stretch out the inner diameter. The generic metal tube seems to be a good size as it is comfortable and yet still big enough to allow urination without a lot of mess.
- Mr Pickle
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Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
My experience of silicon is. Even the best cut smallest gap still causes trouble because that edge moves slightly and constantly wearing away at a very thin membrane.
If you want to stretch your urethral tube get the right equipment. Sounding rods. And take it very. Very slowly.
There are forum dedicated to this.
In reality though. There little point in going over 8mm.
If you want to stretch your urethral tube get the right equipment. Sounding rods. And take it very. Very slowly.
There are forum dedicated to this.
In reality though. There little point in going over 8mm.
Me. "I only got 30 seconds, that's not fair". C. "life's not fair, suck it up"
Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
I recently got a new very short cage, not flat, just very short. I tried the curved metal tube and found the distance between the ring bottom and tube caused pain and pinching of the urethra. I installed a straight tube and problem solved. Anatomically it is not lined up, but doesn't seem to be problem. Comfort is great.
I think because the cage is short, pullout would be possible, but difficult. Reinsertion would be very, very difficult if not impossible. While not escape proof, you would be found out if you cheated and pulled out. I self lock. so not an issue. I do find the very short cage and tube are super comfortable and convenient.
I think because the cage is short, pullout would be possible, but difficult. Reinsertion would be very, very difficult if not impossible. While not escape proof, you would be found out if you cheated and pulled out. I self lock. so not an issue. I do find the very short cage and tube are super comfortable and convenient.
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Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
BWiley wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2024 2:47 pm I recently got a new very short cage, not flat, just very short. I tried the curved metal tube and found the distance between the ring bottom and tube caused pain and pinching of the urethra. I installed a straight tube and problem solved. Anatomically it is not lined up, but doesn't seem to be problem. Comfort is great.
I think because the cage is short, pullout would be possible, but difficult. Reinsertion would be very, very difficult if not impossible. While not escape proof, you would be found out if you cheated and pulled out. I self lock. so not an issue. I do find the very short cage and tube are super comfortable and convenient.
Yes. I found the same with the short short but not flat cage.
I stuck with a straight tube, but angled it down slightly.
The flat is also very comfortable without adjustment.
Me. "I only got 30 seconds, that's not fair". C. "life's not fair, suck it up"
- Mr Pickle
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Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
Over two years now. Wow!
I now have a selection of cages from flat to long, all have a urethral.
The flat is ok with the shorter and the longer tube.
Im being kept in the small (micro) cage more often now.
The small suits the shorter straight, although there isnt much difference in insert length.
The rest take the longer tube (cages needed tweeking to get it in the right place).
I also have possession of a cobra (not mine), and have made an adapter to allow this to have a tube. It worked very well. Very comfy.
No issues at all with any these.
I now have a selection of cages from flat to long, all have a urethral.
The flat is ok with the shorter and the longer tube.
Im being kept in the small (micro) cage more often now.
The small suits the shorter straight, although there isnt much difference in insert length.
The rest take the longer tube (cages needed tweeking to get it in the right place).
I also have possession of a cobra (not mine), and have made an adapter to allow this to have a tube. It worked very well. Very comfy.
No issues at all with any these.
Me. "I only got 30 seconds, that's not fair". C. "life's not fair, suck it up"
- Mr Pickle
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Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
LzmrdWizard wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2024 2:18 pm Hello @Mr Pickle!
It seems I've encountered the problem you described in your post, where you talked about the cage of the same model that you ordered a second time.
It's the one we discussed earlier.
The issue is that the catheter/tube doesn't match the anatomy and is positioned much higher than the urethra. In one of your posts, you described how you bent it much lower, but I didn't quite understand how this process works in detail.
I wouldn't want to damage the tube's coating due to a lack of knowledge.
Mr Pickle wrote: ↑Sat Aug 31, 2024 11:14 am Hey @LzmrdWizard .
Yes. The problem is when you get hard. The tube is in the wrong place. It hurts. A lot.
I altered my old one quite easily.
Put it face down on a wooden base. Get a good fat screw.
Screw it face down throught the pee hole.
Put the handle of a hammer into the cage and pull.
Try not to bend the eye for the ring. But this is easy to straighten.
Thats how I did it. A bit gung ho.
Im not sure what you ar describing is what im recomending so done a basic sketch.
If you can work ot out.
It is the Eye of the actual cage (the pee hole) that needs to be altered slightly. It is often supplied at the wrong angle.
It is very difficult to break stainless steel. Takes a good force even to bend.
Force of the lever woukd be towards the ring shape link for base ring.
In my case the link did.bend slightly. It bends back without breaking.
This then makes the uretheral angle downwards.
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Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
It seems I took an alternative approach and simply bent the tube/catheter itself, instead of the cage opening. And it worked too. At least for now, I can't notice any significant drawbacks to this method or any severe discomfort.Mr Pickle wrote: ↑Mon Sep 02, 2024 5:06 amLzmrdWizard wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2024 2:18 pm Hello @Mr Pickle!
It seems I've encountered the problem you described in your post, where you talked about the cage of the same model that you ordered a second time.
It's the one we discussed earlier.
The issue is that the catheter/tube doesn't match the anatomy and is positioned much higher than the urethra. In one of your posts, you described how you bent it much lower, but I didn't quite understand how this process works in detail.
I wouldn't want to damage the tube's coating due to a lack of knowledge.Mr Pickle wrote: ↑Sat Aug 31, 2024 11:14 am Hey @LzmrdWizard .
Yes. The problem is when you get hard. The tube is in the wrong place. It hurts. A lot.
I altered my old one quite easily.
Put it face down on a wooden base. Get a good fat screw.
Screw it face down throught the pee hole.
Put the handle of a hammer into the cage and pull.
Try not to bend the eye for the ring. But this is easy to straighten.
Thats how I did it. A bit gung ho.
Im not sure what you ar describing is what im recomending so done a basic sketch.
If you can work ot out.
It is the Eye of the actual cage (the pee hole) that needs to be altered slightly. It is often supplied at the wrong angle.
It is very difficult to break stainless steel. Takes a good force even to bend.
Force of the lever woukd be towards the ring shape link for base ring.
In my case the link did.bend slightly. It bends back without breaking.
This then makes the uretheral angle downwards.
I just inserted the catheter into its usual position in the cage, tightened the screw for it on the outside, aligned it so that it was pointing downwards, inserted a wooden hammer handle... and just bent the catheter to the desired angle downwards, rather than bending the mounting for it.
But I finally understood what you meant from the beginning.
- Mr Pickle
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Re: Transition to steel urethral tube Log.
Yeah. That makes sense too.
I thought the tube might be too fragile. Ive broken one at the nut end trying to remove the locknut after getting the wrong type.
I thought the tube might be too fragile. Ive broken one at the nut end trying to remove the locknut after getting the wrong type.
Me. "I only got 30 seconds, that's not fair". C. "life's not fair, suck it up"